Als ich das letzte Mal in Japan war, genauer gesagt in Kamakura, der Stadt mit der grössten Buddha-Statue, genannt Daibutsu, habe ich auch nach kulturellen Rosinen Ausschau gehalten. Und in einem Tempelgarten wurde ich fündig. In einer kleinen Halle übte sich Jung und Alt in der Kunst des Bogenschiessens. Der Fachbegriff heisst Kyudo. Darunter versteht sich eine alte traditionelle Form der Martial Arts, die nur in Japan vorkommt. Es geht den Schülern dabei um eine meditative Annäherung an die Kunst des Bogenschiessens, für die man 30 Jahre oder mehr Training braucht, bis man sich der Perfektion nähert. Wen man den Schülern zuschaut, sieht man wie stark Konzentration, Disziplin und Meditation im Mittelpunkt stehen. Ich durfte sie beim Training filmen und habe meine Eindrücke in diesem auf vimeo veröffentlichten Video eigefangen. Da die Farben fast überflüssig waren, habe ich das Video in klassischem Schwarz-Weiss gehalten. Wenn Du auch von der Kunst des Kyudos fasziniert bist, kannst Du auch gerne ein Interview mit der Kyudo-Schülerin Mamie Mayanaki ansehen, das ich auf srichinmoy.tv im Rahmen meiner Interview-Serie LIFE Voices publiziert habe.

Podziękowałam i ruszyłam w dalszą drogę. Po 20 min ukazał mi się banner z kamienną twarzą Buddy i napisem, że do celu brakuje mi kolejnych 9km. "Troszku" się dziecko zdenerwowało, bo 15 km a 24 km to różnicę jednak robi (popołudnie miałam spędzić w Liberty, pomagając w dekoracji szkoły na wakacyjne zajęcia) a i jak zwykle nie trafili z prognozą pogody i z minuty na minutę robiło się coraz bardziej gorąco, a ja powoli zaczęłam przybierać wygląd homara. Droga była zawiła, ale urozmaicona - a to wzniesienie, a to bambusowy las, a to znów jakiś mały rodzinny cmentarz buddyjski. Słowem wesoło- ptacy śpiewali, komary kąsały i wszystkim było radośnie.

Wreszcie, po 2 godzinach jazdy (zrobiłam sobie przerwę w bambusowym lesie, bo bardzo je lubię :), dotarłam na miejsce. Najpierw oczom mym ukazały się masywne plecy 120 metrowego posągu. Im bliżej do celu, tym brzydszy sie mi wydawał. W końcu stanęłam naprzeciw niego i ujrzałam pięknego księcia Shakamunjego, którego podstepnie zamieniono w niezbyt sympatycznego giganta z brązu o nieprzystępnym wyrazie twarzy. No, ale jest jednym z największych na świecie (2 lub 3) i to się liczy, czyż nie? Budda z Kamakura (14,9 m) zmieściłby się w jego dłoni (18 m), ale to właśnie ten siedzący Budda ze świątyni Koutokuin z 1252 r. bardziej przypadł mi do gustu.

Amitaba, czyli "Bezmierny Blask", Budda Czystej Krainy, Czerwony Budda Zachodu w mandali dhajnibuddów, mistrz rodziny, to jedno z 5 Nagromadzeń, składających się na buddyjski model osobowości. Cytuję za http://www.buddyzm.pl: "Nauki o pięciu nagromadzeniach czyli skandhach opisują całą złożoność aspektów, które stanowią o osobowości. Rozpoznanie tych poszczególnych aspektów prowadzi do przeciwdziałania silnym wewnętrznym nawykom, które nakazują nam traktować osobę jako niezmienne ja. Owe nawyki są podstawową przyczyną ponownego odradzania się w kręgu uwarunkowanej egzystencji i związanego z tym cierpienia. Ponieważ wierzymy w niezmienne „ja”, przywiązujemy się do określonego obrazu siebie, przez co powstają kolejne fałszywe poglądy i przeszkody. Jeśli zrozumiemy, że to wyobrażenie jest tylko nawykowym uproszczonym myśleniem, odkrywamy olbrzymie bogactwo w nas samych i innych."

Jestem największy! Ha!

U stóp Buddy znajduje się niewielki ogród z małym stawem, w którym królują szalone karpie. Za 100 yenów można kupić pokarm dla ryb, dzięki któremu zobaczymy jak z pozoru spokojne karpie zamieniają się w karpie D1000 - szybkie, skaczące ponad poziom wody, jak łososie walczące z prądem rzecznym w drodze na tarło;)

Jak podziwiać piękno ogrodu.

A to, co widzimy po wejściu do Buddy - Mini Budda, który wygląda jakby właśnie w strumieniu światła opuścił swój kosmiczny pojazd ( żadna/(żaden?) Mahajana czy Hinajana - po prostu UFO).

Jaką interpretację tej niezwykłej instalacji odpustowo-diodowej proponujecie?

Pewnie, że chciałoby się chociaż za stopy chwycić:)

A to, co najbardziej się mi w tym całym futurystycznym kompleksie religijnym podobało- zdjęcia przedstawiające jak powstawał Olbrzym.

Moje ulubione foto.

Są ich setki, tysiące!

Ja wolę tego pana.

Pół roku temu.

Dzisiaj.

Wyglądam jak pomidor. Nigdy nie ufajcie serwisom pogodowym!

Pozdrawiam i ściskam!

The statue used to be covered in a temple hall until a tsunami actually made it all the way to the Kotokuin Temple grounds where it is located, and washed the building away at the end of the 15th century.

The most impressive site of Kamakura was the Hasedera Temple which overlooks the coastal area of Kamakura. The temple contains everything from hundreds of statues, loads of blooming flowers, a temple, rice balls :), and even a cave.

One visit surely is not enough to this amazing temple. I will definitely make my way back to the Hase Temple seeing how it is a photographic playground, especially when all of the enormous flowers are in bloom.

Hase Kannon Temple in Kamakura Japan-

I do not photograph people very often as I don't want to encroach on anyone's privacy, but these incense burners are such great spots to capture the spiritual side of Japan, they have become almost cliché on websites such as Flickr. I have no problems with this cliché, I will definitely be putting my telephoto lens to good use at every temple I visit in Japan.

Sensō-ji Temple in Asakusa, Japan-

The "Swastika" symbol you see in the picture above actually means "Temple" in Japanese. As a Westerner it was odd to see these symbols all over the temple grounds at first. But we quickly figured out their meaning in Japan.

Set of stairs before Temple

Posing before washing my hands

-Enrique

International Christian University (Tokyo) JDS fellows pose in front of the Kamakura daibatsu (the one in orange isn't Garfield, but the stout image of this blogger's former self)

But unlike its Nara cousin, the Kamakura daibatsu sits out in the open. The statue, it is said, was originally housed in Kotokuin temple but the enclosure was swept away by a tsunami in the late 15th century.

Garfield and friends, with the great buddha in the background

The serenity of the sitting bronze buddha has mesmerized thousands, including the so-called Lady of Nijo, and English poet Sir Rudyard Kipling.

Looking down, it is as if this red torii was built to invoke the gods' protection from giant waves. The temple where the daibatsu was said to be housed originally was purportedly swept away by a tsunami. With the temple this close from the shore, there is practically no need for explanation.

Kamakura's Daibatsu or great buddha is among this ancient capital's main tourist attractions

One of Japan's favorite hiking spots, Kamakura is small and may be covered by foot in less than a day. In the olden days, however, it served as the de facto capital of Japan as the seat of the Shogunate (Bakufu). I think this was during the reign of Minamoto Yoritomo in 1192. In fact, by 1250 AD, Kamakura became the 4th largest city in the world, a thriving community of 200,000 people.

Dining places near the pier

Kamakura is often referred to as the Kyoto of eastern Japan because of its well-preserved shrines, temples and monuments. It has also become a favorite surfing site among Tokyo residents.

Kamakura's dark sands and wavy shores for some reasons are becoming a come-on for Tokyo's surfing enthusiasts

More of those quaint dining places near the pier

Jochi-ji Temple

The head monk of Jōchi-ji Temple.

Kencho-ji Temple

The head monk of Kencho-ji Temple.

When I was in Japan, I had the priviledge of playing two live gigs as well as participating in irregular sessions with this talented guitarist. Currently, living in the small town of Kamakura, in Kanagawa, Japan, Yuki-kun tends to frequent in the Yokohama-Tokyo area. A very shy individual, with a wicked sense of humour and a smooth voice, it was a pleasure to play and listen to him at the same time.

Currently he has one unofficial live album and official one studio album released. The official album, by the name of "Shine", are a collection of smooth, relaxing Bossa tunes. Very much in the same reign as Stan Getz and Joan Gilberto, they are beautiful indeed. I do hope that Yuki makes it big in Japan, just like his close friend and contemporary Yusuke Hirado, of Quasimode (another Latin based jazz quartet, of which Yusuke formed).

I leave you with "One More Time, Only (もう一度だけ)", my favourite tune from Shine...

[audio http://conillusione.files.wordpress.com/2008/05/06-one-more-time-only.mp3]

Lunch featured requests to scarf our food down with alacrity. Monks touched their foreheads to the tatami mats after we were served, after they explained the menu, after they offered us tea, and when we finally got our asses up and out the door.

The monks were moving fast when they weren't bowing. In the kitchen they had their sleeves tied up and they were washing dishes and wiping bowls. My super-deluxe polite Japanese request to take a photo of the kitchen was forwarded up the chain of command to a guy in gray samue. He sucked his teeth, said something about work being done, and bowed. Which meant no.

All the normal tourists got tsk-tsked away from the gate of the Shariden complex, inside of which is the zendo (meditation hall) and the Shariden building. "Shariden" actually refers to the gold reliquary, but the building housing it is also called the Shariden.

The building is a Japanese National Treasure because of its age (around 1563) and the fact that it once held or was supposed to have held a relic of the Buddha. Our tour guide (a monk with an orange bullhorn) told us it was a wisdom tooth, but when you do a Internet search for "Shariden" the sources say there are no relics left. Or the relics are from some venerable Japanese monk.

I wanted photos for my 2008 Hot Young Engakuji Monks calendar. Mr. May, the monk I most wanted a photo of, declined my request with sweetly pursed lips and a gorgeous bow. We got stuck with Bullhorn Fred instead.

Luckily my hostess shares my enjoyment of what is NOT on the tour: we peeled off the main group and poked our heads in the back hall behind the zendo. Buddha's wisdom tooth, yea, whatever---I can't get enough of buckets and perfectly aligned sandals.

And so, Bogdanelle and the Odakyu Free Pass once again saved me from not being enlightened by the sight of the Big Buddha of Kamakura.

And was it worth it?

Err...sadly not. I don't understand all the hullabaloo over going to Kamakura and Enoshima. Sure, they are within 2 hours by train from Tokyo, and with the Romance Car, it does look touristy. But I honestly don't think they have anything more to offer than the Great Buddha at the Kotokuin Temple and the Iwaya Caves in Enoshima (which was sadly and tastelessly embellished with glow-in-the-dark pebbles and a cheap dragon statue).

The Great Buddha at Kotokuin Temple

Iwaya Caves, Enoshima

Well, of course, if you do look at its historical significance as the former capital of Japan, Kamakura might just be worth the visit. But there just isn't anything that seems to stand out. And if you're not up for long walks or trekking, you might just as well forget it. :)

In any case, another place I've finally conquered here in Japan. Good enough if you're collecting thumbtacks on your map.

]]> http://adventuresofanartisan.wordpress.com/2008/05/14/check-out-my-slide-show-4/ Wed, 14 May 2008 08:31:09 +0000 emily http://adventuresofanartisan.wordpress.com/2008/05/14/check-out-my-slide-show-4/ these are todays pictures. I am going to take a nap and come back and write a blog with it. Right now I need to rest, it has been a long busy day.

Hi I am back!

I was really glad today that I did road rallies in the past because that is what I felt like I was doing today. I would get a clue here and talk with someone else about how to get somewhere and then get another clue to figure out. But the long and short of it I got there with a little bit of thinking.

I wanted to go to the store with yarn I was told about, it is called Yuzawaya. It is Japan’s version of Sears and JoAnn Fabrics rolled into one. The address was Kamiooka-nishi, Kona-Ku Yokohama-City, Kanagawa. It said it was in front of Kamiooka Station of the Yokohama municipal subway and Keikyu Line. Sounds easy. I figured go to Yokohama ask around for Keikyu line and there it would be. Not so easy! I went to Yokohama City then was sent on another train to Kanagawa which sent me back to Yokohama City to find the Keikyu line. When I found the station I found one person with a little English and he printed a map in English for me. Well it wasn’t English it just wasn’t in Congi. He then pointed to the station I wanted Kamioooka which was nine stops from where I was. Great I got on went over and found the store. It was a great store.

I found buttons, stuff for making purses, fabric, and YARN!

 I was surprise to see how many man where there buying yarn and fabric. There was a whole section of fabric to make suits and shirts for men. Thank God I don’t make Paul’s suits. God Bless them. I found four great books. I will share with you later. Two are knitting books (one with 250 different types of patterns, the other is hats), and the other two are Needle embroidery. They are really neat and beautiful!

I found many books and all kinds of stuff. The girls at the cash register there were very nice even when I brought all my buttons without the trays with the prices. They had to go back and match all the buttons to the boxes and then bring them to the register. It only took four girls to help. Two had some English put them together and I could pay.

I then took the train back to Yokohama station and found the rapid blue train to Kamakura. There are twelve temples in this area. I saw two, The Big Buddha – Kotokuin-Temple and Hasedera-Temple. I learned that Hitler took the Congi symbol for peace and temple to use for the Swastika.    The grounds were wonderful and so many different gods. There was statues for at least 10,000 if you count the small ones. The gardens were so wonderful and the trees just beautiful. I am so glad I have one true God there is just too many strange looking things for all kind of reasons. On the bus over to the Big Buddha a gentleman stood by me and started talking in English. He asked about my trip and where I lived and so many things. He said he doesn’t get to use his English often but enough. He told me he once spent a week in Nashville and it was big and he loves country music. He helped me get off at the right place and where to walk to get to the other temple. The Big Buddha had many children with their classes. One set of children came up to me with a clip board and said. “Excuse me, may I ask you questions? Then asked where I was from, and used Hello and a few other phrases. Then they asked if they could have a photograph with me. I said yes but I wanted one too. Took a little while for them to understand that but it was a great photo. I was their English lesson for the day.

I then went to Hasedera-Temple. It is a large wooden temple with many gardens and trees. You go through the temple and grounds and stop at a look out that is over the ocean and then you can see the mountains. To say it was beautiful does not explain the view at all.  I found it very interesting. Many priests were doing things and people were lighting candles and taking fortunes. I was slowing down a little so I stop and drew a few trees and the temple in my art book. I didn’t notice until I looked up and saw several older men watching and nodding at me. I learned they really love their trees and to draw them is very special. Who knew!

I then walked back to the station little did I know it was a 45 minute walk but it was pleasant and I got to see the real city and people. I asked one man for help to the train station and we worked at getting me headed in the right direction. He went off his way and I continued but just as I was confused as which left I needed he appeared and took me down the right street. I think he thought about it a little and then came back to find me and direct me the right way. He had no English but my little Japanese and cheat sheet had me going in the right direction but I bet he was sure I would miss the small street to turn. He was right and I was very grateful he came back! Gochisoo sama deshita! Many people act really surprise that I am by myself. They are always asking ichiban (one) and then put up one figure. I say yes and they give me the bow with the ohhhhhh ahhhhh, thing.

I then found my way back to Yokohama and then to Shi-Yokohama with out a problem this time. I figured out what I did wrong yesterday. There are two places to queue up on the platform. One is green one is blue. I got on the first one that came last time. It was blue and wrong. This time I waited for the green train.  I was Right! I ask less and less how to get around each time. 

Tomorrow I am staying in Shin-Yokohama and going to the Ramen Noodle factory and the art museum. Day after I will head out for the Silk Museum near Yamashita-Koen. I just need to figure out how to get there or at least get started to get there before I go. It will be another road rally I am sure.

More tomorrow. I miss everyone and wish you could be here with me. (need some one to talk to!)  But I am having a great time.

Love Emily

!!!